Instructions for Beading Projects

Specially made items have recessed areas to accept your beads and designs, in classic needleweaving stitches such as ODD COUNT FLAT PEYOTE STITCH, TUBULAR PEYOTE STITCH, SQUARE STITCH, LOOMWORK, etc., and myriad other bead stitches. Any beadwork stitch that you can form into a tube (tube of beads), either naturally (Tubular Peyote Stitch), or by invisibly joining a beaded rectangle at the seam, can be used. You can also glue on flat-backed stones, such as rhinestones.

1) Start with: Instructions basic to all projects Directly Below - PRE-REQUISITE: You must know Tubular Peyote Stitch, Odd and Even Count Flat Peyote Stitch, Square Stitch or Loomwork. All blank graphs provided are for Flat Peyote Stitch.
Free Instructions for Even Count Peyote (html format)
Free Instructions for Odd Count Peyote (html format)
Free Instructions for Tubular peyote (html format)

2) Then Patterns for the Project Blanks/Parts including blank graphs are on each product description page.

3) (after beading) go to Final Assembly Instructions for each individual project: (also available on each product description page.
- Twist Pen -Click Pencil - Ceiling Fan Pull - Letter Opener - Necklace Perfume Vial Holder Perfume Pen Applicator -Mini Detachable Necklace Pen -Perfume Atomizer Mirror and Mini Box - no assembly required. Others are just screw on caps, etc.

All content (c) Toika Bridges 1998

Instructions basic to all beading projects:

****** These projects come partially assembled. meaning that as many parts are put together as possible, and still leave everyone options in their beadwork. Such as, a) the ability to leave off the pen clips if you do a more sculptural design, b) the ability to slip your 'bead tube' on and off the project to let you see how you are doing, and try different designs before settling and glueing on one design, c) The ability to do tubular peyote directly on the brass tube (for perfect beading tension), without the clip or other items being in the way, Assembly of these projects requires a hammer OR a vise, OR a Quick Clamp(r), and two one inch squares of at least 1/8" thick cardboard (glue together several layers of thin cardboard if you need to). Dense rubber will last much longer. You may need several sets of thick cardboard, because the brass tubes are very sharp, and will cut right through the cardboard. The brass tubes are also very thin, and you want thick cardboard or rubber so you don't crumple them when hammering. Constantly check your cardboard to see if it has been cut through, and you need a new piece.

The End Caps, Pen Clips, etc. DO NOT come on and off at will. The brass tubes in each project are left open for you to test and put your beadwork on as described above. Then they need one or two gentle blows with a hammer (as described, make sure to protect the project parts). The parts are machined to stay in their place indefinitely. They actually very slightly expand the brass tubes, so the parts cannot move around, or fall out. This is necessary because no glue holds as long as this method does. And glued-in parts cannot normally stand up to the force people sometimes use when clipping pens to things, or the way we all tug and pull at our necklaces, Key Rings, etc. without thinking.

All types of beads can be used in these projects. Miyuki Delica(r) beads are the most uniform, and will have a sleeker appearance. Size 11/0 or 15/0 is probably the best for these projects, depending on what stitch, and what 'look' you want to create. Beads can be found in craft stores, Bead stores, mail order catalogs, and vendors on the Internet. (Delicas will not be found in most mainstream "craft" stores.)

Never use any type of 'super glues or gels' from any manufacturer. No cyanoacrylates. They have a chemical reaction with the gold plating and form a 'frost'. Sometimes it won't come off. This effect can take as much as 24 hours to appear! Use E6000(r), Hypo-tube Cement(r), jeweler's watch glue, or something like Aleene's (r) jewel glue.

On project parts that have black plastic, never use acetone or other solvents to clean them. It will melt and mar the black plastic. Use regular strength window cleaner, not 'professional' strength glass or other cleaners.

1) For these projects you are basically making a tube out of beads, and glueing it over the brass pen barrels, for a finished, beaded pen. Any stitch that you can make a rectangle out of, join invisibly at the seam; or that forms a tube naturally (tubular peyote and its varieties), can be used.

These projects allow for versatility in your design and bead stitch choices. With your purchase, blank graph paper for flat peyote (all for Delicas(r) 11/0) is included for these projects.

Even and Odd Count Flat Peyote, Tubular Peyote, and Tubular Free-form Peyote are three good stitches to start with. A little more advanced, and more time consuming are: Loomwork , Square stitch, Spirals, Helix's, and a myriad of other stitches available.

2) The more uniform the beads, the sleeker the finished pen. Miyuki Delicas(r) are the most uniform brand of beads, and are carried by numerous bead stores, internet bead stores, and mail-order companies. Size 11/0 Delicas(r) or slightly smaller seed beads are a good choice for these projects. ( In bead sizes, the larger the number, the smaller the bead.) Delicas(r) are more uniform than seed beads. Also, only the Miyuki triangle cut beads work very nicely on the Key Rings and Letter Openers. They also create fantastic sculptural shapes when mixed with other beads. Delicas(r) mixed with other bead shapes such as Swarovski's, bugles, etc, make beautiful, more sculptural designs. Since these projects might see a lot of use, consult the Caravan Beads web site for information on the durability of some Delica(r) colors.

3) The blank pattern paper is a guideline for making your own designs. The graph is based on using Delicas (r) size 11/0, and Nymo(r) size B beading thread. Everyone beads at a slightly different tension, and uses different size bead threads. It is highly recommended that you make an "L" shaped, sample bead strip, using the EXACT beads YOU plan to use. 2 columns by 2 rows is usually sufficient. When holding this strip up to the project tube, you must put an extra needle up through the strip. It is the only way to make them line up straight for exact sizing.

Adjustments can be made if your 'bead tube' comes out slightly larger than expected. A piece of fabric can be glued to the pen tube before applying the 'bead tube' to the pen tubes. Fabric can also enhance the color of the beads. The general tendency is to make too many rows. If you are not using Delicas(r) and the graph paper, wrap the beaded rectangle around the pen tube occasionally to check for size, but even if you think there aren't enough rows, thread part of the seam together. Your work will stretch a little, and you may have enough rows.

If you use Tubular Peyote stitch, you can bead directly around the tube, and there is no need for graphs or test strips.

**Also remember, you are 'designing in the round'. The portion of your total design that a person can 'view' at any one time, is much less than the entire 'bead rectangle' you will be weaving into a tube.

Example - Twist Pen, Ceiling Fan Pull

This picture shows the portion of your 'bead tube' that will be visible at any one time (using Delica (r) size 11/0's). This will not print out to correct size through this web site. It is 2 1/8"h x 3/8" w.

4) General Info on Beadwork Stitches. Tie a bead (usually a larger one than will be used for the project) onto one end of your bead thread, leaving about 6" beyond this "stopper bead". You will need this thread later. Then thread beads on as usual. As said above, you are weaving a rectangle of beads, to be invisibly stitched into a 'tube of beads'. (Unless, of course, you are using tubular peyote stitch.) When finished with the rectangle, and you are starting to close the seam, you will need about 12" of thread remaining, to stitch up the seam (depending on which stitch you are using). When you have finished the seam, thread the bead thread back through some more beads (random, your choice) then to the inside of the bead tube, and cut the thread off. If you feel a little glue is necessary, apply a Little drop to the end of the thread. After it dries, clip the thread. You must also re-thread the approximately 6" of bead thread you left at the beginning of the project. Thread it through some beads, and glue it inside the bead tube also, or just cut it off inside the bead tube.

Remember the web sites listed above for beadwork stitch instructions. Each beadwork stitch allows for different design effects. Tubular peyote is the fastest, and Flat Peyote is probably the second fastest.

Tubular Peyote or Tubular Free-form Peyote Stitch - In this stitch, you string onto your thread enough beads to go all the way around the pen tube. Then run the thread back through these same beads to make a tight circle. Then begin the tubular peyote stitch.

Flat Peyote Stitch - This allows you to needleweave a rectangle that can invisibly be joined at the seam to form a 'bead tube'. In Flat Peyote there is Even Count Peyote and Odd Count Peyote. In this case, even and odd refer to how many beads it takes to make one row. How many it takes depends on the type of beads you are using. BUT, you MUST have an even number of completed Rows to invisibly join this rectangle at the seam. When there are an even number of rows, you come out with a rectangle that looks like a 'zipper' where you are joining the seam. It is very easy to wrap the rectangle around the pen tube, and thread through this 'zipper' to join the seam. The bead tube can be slipped off for later glueing.

Loomwork - As the name suggests, this type of needleweaving is done on a loom. Looms can be made at home, or purchased in a craft store inexpensively. Please see the following web site for instructions on this technique. http://www.suzannecooper.com/classroom/loom.html Loomwork allows you to make lined up rows of beads for your design, while Peyote makes zigzag rows.

5) After you are finished with the 'bead tube(s)', you are ready to put them on the 'brass tube(s)'. (Unless you were using tubular peyote stitch, and stitching directly on the tube(s). Avoid taking the bead tube on and off the brass tube too much. If your work is tight, it will help to break beads right off the thread.

Roughen the 'brass tube(s)' with about 60 grit sandpaper (available in single sheets at most hardware stores, about 80 cents each). But FIRST COVER all of the plated parts, that are already attached to the brass tubes, with masking tape, or you will sandpaper the plating right off. Clean the grit off the brass tubes. Putting a wooden dowel through the brass tubes can help in this step, and in glueing the bead tubes on. Clean and dust off the tubes. You might want to put on a light coat of spray or brush-on clear acrylic, especially if you are using light colored beads, to avoid tarnishing of the brass.

Glueing -

GLUEING the bead tube to the top of the Twist Pen in necessary, since you will be 'twisting' it to push the ink infill in and out. But glueing the bead tube on the other projects is not a necessity. When glueing your 'bead tube' to the brass tube(s) when you think glueing is necessary, use a clear drying glue such as E6000(r), Jewel Glue (Aleene's(r) makes one), etc. Do not use Super glue's or gels. They will not give you the working time you will need. They also have a reaction with the plating. They have a chemical reaction with the gold plating and form a 'frost'. Sometimes it won't come off. This effect can take as much as 24 hours to appear! Apply glue SPARINGLY, and apply most of it on the center 1/3 of the 'pen tube(s)'. As you slide the 'bead tube(s) 'over the 'pen tube(s)', the glue will tend to be pushed toward the bottom of the tube. Have a clean cloth ready to wipe off any excess glue. Putting the 'bead tube' over a pencil or wooden dowel helps to ease it onto the brass tube if the 'bead tube' tries to crumple inward while pushing it on the brass tube.

6) Whenever these instructions say to gently hammer parts together, you can also use a bench vise with jaws that are lined with thick (1/4") cardboard or rubber. A bench vise may require more rubber or cardboard padding, since the leverage available to you will quickly press the parts together, possibly faster then you want. You can use two piecesof dense rubber. The easiest thing to do is tape down one piece of rubber or cardboard to the tabletop, and tape one piece to the head of the hammer. These tools are found in the hardware store. If you will be doing a lot of projects, a bench vise with rubber-lined jaws is by far the easiest.

When using pads and a Hammer, it is highly recommended that you get down to eye level with the project parts. This way you can see if the parts are going together perfectly straight, or if they need a little adjustment between gentle blows of the hammer. You can also see exactly when you have gotten the parts flush together. Over-hammering can crack the beads, and/or damage the project parts, or crumple the thin brass tubes.

When using a vise, you can use double-sided tape to attach your cardboard or rubber pads to the vise jaws. Place these pads right in the middle of the jaws, where the pressure on the projects will be centered.

Always keep your eyes on how the parts are going together. Get down to eye level. Re-adjust for straightness as necessary.

Picture on left is using a vise to press the project parts together. Picture on the right is using cardboard and/or rubber pads (one taped to head of hammer) to hammer the project parts together.

Follow the order given below to assemble the finished bead/brass tubes and remaining pen parts. On some projects it is essential to do the parts in sequence. You may put in a part, then put in another part, press or hammer, and the first part will go in beyond where it is supposed to. Start each step by hand; then you will need to finish with a vise OR hammer (no glue is used). When using a vise, line the jaws with tough rubber, or a 1/4" stack of thick cardboard. This will protect the gold finish and metal parts of the project from the pressure of the vise or hammer.